Player's Stories In this article, we will begin to tackle the dangerous decisions one has to make in the small blind, specifically when facing a habitual blind stealer. Playing a small blind combines all the critical factors of big blind play: frequency of the opposing player's raises, pot odds offered, skill of the opposing player, value of position, and need for aggression preflop. The small blind also faces one unique obstacle: the precarious arrangement between the button and big blind. Frequency of Raises and Skill of Opponent (Button) Pot Odds 3-handed $3/6 game. Blinds $1/$3 3-handed $5/10 game. Blinds $2/5 3-handed $10/20 game. Blinds $5/10 If pot odds were our only consideration, we could look at these numbers alone to determine what fraction of hands to play in the small blind. For example, we showed in the past article that ~45% of hands could be called in the big blind after the small blind folded if the button was a habitual blind stealer raising 100% of the time. By comparing the ratios, we could determine the correct number of calling hands in the small blind. Here's one way of crunching the numbers. Small Blind Pot Odds/Big Blind Pot Odds In other words, if playing a $3/6 game, assuming all other things equal, the pot odds indicate calling only 60% what you would normally call in the big blind. If you would call or reraise with 45% of your hands in the big blind against a given opponent, you should call or reraise only the best 27% of hands from the small blind. Fearing the Unknown: The Live Big Blind The disadvantage of multiway action for an out-of-position player is increased for all scenarios. To really examine the small blind effectively, we must compare heads-up to multiway games in three separate circumstances: when the small blind is leading after the flop, when the small blind has a drawing hand after the flop, and when the small blind has a bluffing hand. It is easiest to begin with bluffs, since the math is straightforward. Let's compare heads-up and 3-handed games on the flop. Scenario 1: Bluffing With $50 in the pot, the small blind very often has sufficient odds to bluff or semibluff. It will be hard for the big blind to call with no pair/no draw. Even a checkraise bluff against a flop bettor would only need to be successful one in four times. Therefore, the bluff is a strong and valuable play against one opponent. A. Button calls 33% of time. B. Button calls 50% of time. C. Button call 75% of time. D. Button calls 90% of time. Example 2. It might seem that the extra money in the pot would be good for the small blind's bluff potential, but this is not the case. The problem is that a bluff must knock out both players to earn an immediate profit. The odds of stealing a pot against two opponents is significantly decreased, reducing the overall EV of a bluff play. The odds of each player calling is not quite cumulative. For example, if each opponent called 1 out of 2 times, that does not mean there would be a call 100% of the time with two opponents. Instead, 25% of the time both opponents will call, 25% of the time neither opponents will call, and 50% of the time only one opponent would call. A. Each player calls 33% of time. B. Each player calls 50% of time. C. Each player call 75% of time. D. Each player calls 90% of time. Without the ability to bluff profitably, the small blind has lost an important weapon. Scenario 2: Drawing Hand/Semibluffing Example 3. Example 4. Conclusion Ultimately, the question we must examine is: "Will the increase in success be worth the $10 increase before seeing the flop?" In the next article, we'll try to answer this question by reviewing the advantage/disadvantage of heads-up/multiway action when the small blind holds a strong hand. Then, we can simply compare the scenarios (bluffs, drawing hands, and made hands) to try to calculate the best play. Hopefully, it'll all come together neatly. Until next article, if you have any questions or comments, please feel free to email me at jason@pokerpages.com.
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Short Handed Poker: The Scary Small Blind
(Part I)