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Ace Speaks - Starting Hand Selection & Stack Size (part I)
by Rolf Slotboom

Introduction

A lot has been written about the influence of the number of chips in front of you on the hands you can and should play. Almost without exception, these writings are about tournament play. After all, it should be clear that in tournaments, those who only look at the quality of their cards when making the decision whether or not to play, and who don't take into account the size of their and their opponents' stacks, will perform significantly worse than the people who do make these adjustments.

But this article that you are reading now is not about tournament play - it is about the relation between stack size and hand selection when it comes to money play. While in the past the majority of the cash games would always be limit, this meant that almost all literature that discussed cash game poker was written from the viewpoint of limit play, and the good big-bet strategies were almost always analyzed from a tournament setting, not cash. But because of the recent growth of big-bet cash games, both in brick and mortar casinos as well as online, it is time to re-evaluate some of this old big-bet tournament literature and to dig into specific cash game strategies for big-bet play. That's what I'll do in this two-part article series. I will discuss a couple of pot-limit Omaha starting hands, and I will try to analyze how the size of your stack can have a major impact on the playability and potential profitability of some of these hands. I will show that some hands should often with big stacks but not with small stacks - and sometimes the other way around as well. Note that the information I provide is not always easy to digest, and to my knowledge not too much has appeared in print about this specific issue before. But if you want to become successful in big-bet cash games, it is absolutely imperative to understand the concepts that I discuss here. In this two-part article, I will analyze three specific starting hands in my favorite game, pot-limit Omaha, and the impact of the stack sizes on the best course of action - not just before the flop, but also later in the hand. It goes without saying that the underlying concepts I will share with you are not just for PLO; they are equally important for other big-bet games like pot- and no-limit hold'em.

Hand No. 1: KK83 rainbow (no suits)

Now, while most people who come from a hold'em background would think this is a premium hand, all good Omaha players know that this actually is a piece of cheese, because it has no suits and is totally uncoordinated - the pair of kings being just about the only value. Having said that, the hand does have some strength, and if you manage to flop a third king then you are usually in a very powerful position - especially when you are in a multiway pot and / or are up against relatively weak opposition.

This means that if you are holding a medium stack (say, between $500 and $800 in a game with $10-10 blinds, or in other words with a stack size of 50-80 times the big blind) and the opposition is not too tough, there is nothing wrong with calling from middle or late position in an unraised pot to see the flop cheaply. After all, you know that if you don't flop a king, you will almost certainly be out, and you will not put a single chip in the pot anymore from then on. But is is worth seeing this flop because if you do hit, you may very well win a big pot - as I said, especially if the pot is multiway and the opposition is rather weak.

But if you are playing a small stack (say anywhere from $150 to $250, or less than 25xBB), then this preflop call may not be so automatic actually. This is especially true if it is probable that the pot gets raised behind you. So, what this means is that with a small stack, holding this KK83 no suits, you might want to call on or near the button in an unraised pot, but not in early or middle position, because if you call now and the pot gets raised behind you, you will probably have to forfeit your bet - a bet that accounts to a fairly high percentage of your stack.* With a medium stack you could have made this call profitably from these early and middle positions, because now if the pot gets raised behind you, this investment you will have lost is a much smaller percentage of your total stack. Remember, in big-bet poker you are always looking for opportunities to double through. Or to be more precise: especially with relatively shallow money you should usually try to play for your entire stack when you decide to get involved. In other words, you should often play for all your money or don't play at all. In cases like this, risking 5% of your stack with a very speculative holding is a definite no-no, especially if there is a reasonable chance that despite this 5% investment you may not even get to see the flop.

  • In some cases, when playing a short or very short stack, it may actually be worth it to go all-in preflop even with a hand this raggedy. This is especially true if you are in a game with highly aggressive players who may give you "protection", either before or after the flop. They may bet very aggressively with marginal holdings to blast everyone out of the pot, in order to reach the river cheaply and maybe get lucky against the all-in player (you). What this means for you is that with all the dead money in the pot, you are almost certainly a big money favorite - despite these crummy cards you are holding. In fact, heads up against one player only, your KK83 may actually be a clear favorite over the hand that your opponent is betting and raising with!

What does all of this mean?

Now, what this means is that this exact same hand KK83 should often be folded with a short stack and can often be called with a medium stack - now, then logic says we can almost always play it when holding a big stack, right? Well, not really. Because of the following conditions, playing this hand can sometimes be profitable if you have a medium stack - but actually unprofitable when playing a large stack (say, more than 100xBB).

  • If you flop top set with a stack of 50xBB or so, you will almost never make a terrible mistake by putting in your entire stack on the flop. Even if you are up against a made straight or a completed flush, you may well have up to 7 outs on the flop and up to 10 outs on the turn to still win the pot. Especially with the dead money in the pot already, you will almost never make a serious mistake, and if you are up against more than one opponent, you are usually in a clear +EV situation - even if one, or even both opponents have your three kings beat at this stage.
  • But if the money is deeper, then the dead money in the pot accounts to a much smaller percentage of the total pot size. With a medium stack and a flop KQJ, you would not be that reluctant to put in all your money on the flop, knowing that even of you are up against the nut straight, you will still win the pot a significant percentage of the time, and in fact because of the dead money in the pot, putting in your money may actually be the mathematical correct play. But with a very large stack, it will worry you to put in all the money if you just have, say, anywhere from 24 to 42% chance of winning! If you make a mathematically unsound decision when playing deep money, then the penalty will be very severe. So, flopping the third king with a large stack is not the same through ticket that it usually is with a short or medium stack. And because of this, an uncoordinated hand like KK83 - that has only one way to hit and that even when it hits has no back-up whatsoever - is usually a clear fold in deep-money play.

Some concrete examples of the problems / difficulties for this KK83 in deep-money play

Let's dig into this matter a little deeper, by analyzing the troubles you may face when playing a big stack - even when you have flopped the hand you wanted: top set.

  • Let's say the flop is KT6 with two of a suit. You bet the pot in middle position and get called by the button. The turn is an offsuit nine - a card that may or may not have helped your opponent. Let's say there is $220 in the pot, and both you and your opponent have $1,200 left. It should be clear that this is a very tough situation for you. If your opponent is a good player, and has the hand reading abilities to put you on the hand that you actually have (top set), then he may be able to either make you fold the best hand by semi-bluffing you off your hand. Or when in fact he has made his straight, he may be able to lure you into calling or even raising with a hand that has only few outs to improve. From this simple example, it should be obvious that with deep money, the draw in position has some clear playing advantages against the made hand out of position. You should take these factors into consideration before your actual decision whether or not to get involved with your hand. After all, it makes no sense to play a crummy hand in order to flop a king - only to see yourself get into serious trouble once that third king has actually flopped.
  • In the exact same situation, with the same two players and the same KT6 flop, let's say that something good happens for you now: the board pairs on the turn. Even though you probably have a lock, it may be hard for you to make any money now that your opponent knows he may be drawing dead. While checking might work against some players in order to induce a bluff, if your opponent has a good read on you and knows you probably have top full, you may not get much more money out of him. But if the turn is a blank, and again you bet the pot ($220) and get called, well then on the river you will face the same unpleasant situation as in the first example. Almost any river card will be scary with all the straight and flush possibilities, and if your opponent is a good player than he may very well lure you intro making the wrong decision. And if the board pairs, then again you may not make a lot of money. Because of all this, you may end up winning a relatively small pot in this situation when your hand remains good, but when the final pot gets extremely large, then you will lose a rather high percentage of the time.

Conclusion

With deep money, this KK83 is usually playable only when you are in position, and when the opposition is fairly weak. You will usually need a hand like KKJ9 single-suited to make a profitable call when your position is not great, because then you would have the possibility to flop top set with redraws, which will allow you to play the hand more strongly. Also, if indeed you flop top set, you may now have at least some blocker cards against the straight draws that your opponents may have. And having just one or two of these cards to block them, may actually make the difference between a profitable draw for your opponents and an unprofitable one. You should take all these factors into account before making the first, seemingly easy, decision to play or not. Knowing in advance the characteristics of a hand with regards to the size of your stack and the potential problems later in the hand, knowing this in advance is absolutely crucial in order to play big-bet poker in a successful manner.

Some final words

In the second part of this article, I will analyze two more hands that can sometimes be played for a profit with certain stack sizes, but not with others. To be more concrete, I will analyze the medium rundown 9876 with no suits, and the rather strange-looking AAAx - a hand that causes quite a few Omaha players many problems.


Rolf Slotboom
Rolf "Ace" Slotboom has been a professional money player since 1998, specializing in limit hold'em, pot-limit Omaha and more recently also no-limit hold'em. He is the semi-official 2005 Dutch Champion, the tournament reporter for almost all major European tournaments, and commentator for Eurosport's EPT broadcasts. His first book, "Hold'em On The Come: Limit Hold'em Strategy For Drawing Hands" has just been released, and his new book "Secrets of Professional Pot-Limit Omaha" is scheduled for September 2006.

 

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